There’s something truly special about hatch weekend on the homestead. It’s quiet, a little nerve-wracking, and filled with tiny peeps that somehow make all the early mornings and preparation worth it. This weekend, we’re expecting 16 chicks to hatch in our incubator, and like every hatch, it’s equal parts excitement and responsibility.

Over time, we’ve learned that those first 48 hours are everything. If you get a few key things right—warmth, hydration, and nutrition—you set your chicks up for success from day one. I wanted to document exactly what we’re doing this weekend so it’s easy to follow, whether you’re brand new to hatching chicks or just want a simple, proven routine.


The First Few Hours: Let Them Rest and Dry

One of the hardest things to do when chicks start hatching is… nothing.

As tempting as it is to open the incubator and check on them constantly, the best thing we can do is let them stay put until they’re fully dry and fluffy. This usually takes several hours, and sometimes up to a full day.

During this time, they’re not just resting—they’re absorbing the remaining yolk from inside the egg, which provides critical nutrition and hydration. That’s why chicks can safely stay in the incubator for up to 24 hours without food or water.

Patience here really matters.


Moving to the Brooder: Setting Them Up Right

Once the chicks are dry and ready, we move them into the brooder. This is where their real start begins.

We keep the brooder at 95°F under the heat source, making sure there’s a warm zone and a slightly cooler area so the chicks can regulate themselves.

For the first few days, we do something a little different—and it has made a huge difference for us:

We use dog pee pads for bedding (Days 1–4)

Instead of starting with pine shavings right away, we line the brooder with pee pads. They’re incredibly practical in those early days because:

  • They make cleanup quick and easy
  • We can clearly monitor droppings (which tells us a lot about chick health)
  • There’s less risk of chicks eating bedding

The key is staying on top of it—we change them multiple times a day, especially if they get wet.

After about four days, once the chicks are stronger and more coordinated, we transition to pine shavings.


One of the First Big Decisions: Marek’s Vaccine

As soon as the chicks are settled into the brooder, we administer the Marek’s vaccine.

Marek’s disease is something we take seriously, and vaccinating early gives chicks protection before they’re ever exposed. The vaccine is given as a subcutaneous injection at the back of the neck, and timing matters—it needs to be used shortly after mixing.

It’s one of those steps that feels intimidating at first, but becomes routine with practice—and it’s worth it for the long-term health of the flock.


Hydration Comes First (Always)

Before we even think about food, we focus on getting every chick to drink.

As each chick goes into the brooder, we gently dip their beak into the water. It’s a simple step, but it teaches them where the water is and how to drink.

For the first few days, we add vitamin and electrolyte drops to their water. This gives them an extra boost after the stress of hatching and helps support their immune systems.

Watching that first sip never gets old—it’s the moment you know they’re going to be okay.


Their First Meals: Simple and Nutrient-Dense

Once the chicks are drinking well, we introduce food.

We always have chick starter feed available at all times, but we also like to give them an extra boost:

Cooked egg yolks

We hard boil eggs, mash the yolks, and offer them in small amounts. It’s one of the best things you can give newly hatched chicks because:

  • It’s packed with protein
  • It’s easy to digest
  • It helps weaker chicks gain strength

They usually take to it quickly, and it’s a great way to make sure everyone is eating early.


When to Introduce Grit

If you’re feeding anything beyond starter feed—like egg yolks—you’ll want to offer chick grit.

We keep it in a small, separate dish so they can take what they need. It helps them properly digest those extra foods and keeps everything moving as it should.


The First 48 Hours: What We’re Watching Closely

This is where we stay especially attentive.

Healthy chicks are surprisingly easy to read once you know what to look for. We check on them several times a day and pay attention to their behavior.

If they’re:

  • Moving around
  • Eating and drinking
  • Evenly spread out in the brooder

…then everything is right on track.

But chicks will also tell you when something’s off.

If they’re piled on top of each other, they’re cold.
If they’re staying far away from the heat, they’re too hot.
If one is lethargic or not eating, it needs extra attention right away.

We make small adjustments as needed, especially with temperature, and keep a close eye on every chick.


Our Daily Routine (Simple but Consistent)

For the first few days, our care routine is straightforward:

  • Change pee pads frequently
  • Refresh water (with vitamins)
  • Refill feed
  • Check on each chick

It only takes a few minutes at a time, but those check-ins make all the difference.


The Transition After Day 4

Once the chicks are a little bigger and more stable, we switch from pee pads to pine shavings.

By then, they’re much less likely to eat bedding, and the brooder starts to feel more like a long-term setup.


Final Thoughts: Warmth, Water, and a Watchful Eye

Every hatch teaches us something new, but the fundamentals always stay the same.

If the chicks are:

  • Warm
  • Hydrated
  • Eating

…you’re doing it right.

This weekend, we’ll be checking on them between baking, chores, and everything else happening on the homestead. It’s busy, a little chaotic, and completely worth it.

Because there’s nothing quite like watching those tiny chicks grow into a thriving flock—starting from this very moment.

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